London to Calcutta by Bus

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jemhouston
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London to Calcutta by Bus

Post by jemhouston »

I thought this was interesting.

https://www.amusingplanet.com/2022/08/l ... y-bus.html


London to Calcutta by Bus
Kaushik Patowary Aug 30, 2022

For fifteen years from the late 1950s to the early 1970s, it was possible to hop on to a bus in London and travel all the way to Calcutta, India. The journey took fifty days and went through such breathtaking destinations such as the the Caspian Sea coast, the Rhine Valley, the Khyber Pass and the Kabul Gorge.

The first London to Calcutta bus service was “The Indiaman” run by Oswald-Joseph Garrow-Fisher. The bus itself was a refurbished AEC Regal III model, that already had 100,000 miles on its odometer when it left London on April 15, 1957, with twenty passengers on board. It arrived in Calcutta on June 5. After a brief stay in Calcutta, the same bus started the return journey to London, successfully concluding the 20,300-mile round trip (about 32,000 km) on August 2, 1957. For the forward journey, Garrow-Fisher charged a fare of £85 and £65 for the return. Reportedly, only seven of the original twenty passengers (two women and five men) were brave enough to endure the journey back to London.

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The bus travelled through France, Italy, West Germany, Austria, Yugoslavia, Bulgaria, Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan before entering North Western India. After entering India, it travelled through New Delhi, Agra, Allahabad and Banaras, eventually reaching Calcutta. It made long hauls in Paris, Venice, Istanbul, Tehran, and Lahore. During the trip, the passengers stayed overnight in hotels, and in some cases had to camp outside when no other accommodation was available.

In The New York Times report, Garrow-Fisher recalled the precarious hairpin-bends along the road passing over the high cliffs near Mount Ararat at the Turkey-Soviet Union border, but also noted that even the high cliffs were not as alarming as the narrow roads with soft shoulders and wandering cyclists in India. In Iran, wooden planks had to be placed under the wheels to prevent the bus from sinking into the desert sands. Sandstorms and torrential rains, dust and heat made progress nightmarish. On the return trip, they found the Pakistan-Iranian border was closed due to an outbreak of Asian influenza. So Mr. Garrow-Fisher diverted the bus from Lahore, beyond which the border was closed, to the city of Karachi from where he intended to take a ship to Iran. Upon reaching the port they learned the land border had reopened. So he turned the bus around and drove back the 630 miles to Lahore, then westward again. The diversion and other obstructions delayed their arrival in London by 16 days, prompting a rumor that the passengers had been murdered by bandits in Iran. The British Embassy in Teheran were so relieved to find the passengers sound and healthy, they organized a cocktail party for the group.

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Mr Oswald Garrow Fisher, driver and organiser of the trip.

One of the passengers, Peter Moss, 22, did not return to London but continued his journey eastwards, by sea, to Malaya. He wrote a diary which he later turned into a book called ‘The Indiaman – When the Going was Good by Land and Sea’ which is a colourful description of his once-in-a-lifetime bus journey.

The Indiaman made a total of four round trips before the bus was retired.

Garrow-Fisher’s successful venture spawned many copy-cats. At one point, as many as 32 operators were plying the London to India route using vehicles that varied from double decker buses to converted fire engines. Some of the journeys terminated in Kathmandu, some in Delhi, and others in Mumbai. One even went as far as Sydney. The last leg of the journey from India to Sydney was made on ship.

This latter trip was organized by Albert Travel, a venture started by British travel agent and Australian resident Andy Stewart, and operated between 1968 and 1975. Stewart bought a dilapidated Albion Motors CS Venturer double-decker bus from the New South Wales Department of Government Transport, after negotiating the asking price down from AU$1000 to AU$400. The bus could barely manage 32 miles per hour and had a large dent in the rear. Stewart completely refurbished the interiors. He fitted it out with bunk beds to suit 14 passengers, extra fuel tanks and drinking water supply. There was also heating in the lower deck, a radio and cassette player, a reading and dining saloon and a kitchen with a gas cooker and sink. He named the bus Albert.

On Albert’s first journey, the bus drove 13 passengers from Sydney to London —a distance of 16,000 miles. The trip was so successful that Albert went on to complete a further 14 Sydney-to-London round trips until 1976 when the passage through Iran was blocked due to an unstable political climate. In 1979, following the Soviet–Afghan War and the Iranian Revolution, overland routes across Asia became untenable and all London to India bus services were terminated.

Now more than forty years later, an India-based travel operator Adventures Overland announced a bus service from New Delhi to London and back, covering 20,000 km and travelling through 18 countries in 70 days. The service was supposed to start in 2021, but got delayed, probably due to the Covid pandemic. The first bus is expected to leave in April next year.

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More pictures at link
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Sukhoiman
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Re: London to Calcutta by Bus

Post by Sukhoiman »

Yes up to 65 war, India and Pakistan still had lot of "no passport required, ID papers fine" travel between both countries for their citizens (especially those with familial relations divided by partition etc).

Afghanistan had also not been interfered with (by Pakistan durrand line stuff - long story) and the Shah of Iran was ofc pro-west....so that was all nominal procedure for the tourist, the westerner hippy trail etc.

So even after 65 war, there was lot of inertia still helping out the western tourist travel fairly seamlessly.

It was 71 war (and then 70s toxicity percolation between AFG and Iran+Pak) that really put a close to all of it....and then of course Iran 79, cold war soviet borders to westerners not being alternative and so on.
MikeKozlowski
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Re: London to Calcutta by Bus

Post by MikeKozlowski »

London to Calcutta by Bus

TBH, this sounds like a pitch for an ep of The Grand Tour.

Mike
Belushi TD
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Re: London to Calcutta by Bus

Post by Belushi TD »

And here I thought that driving to Alaska from New Jersey (twice) was an adventure!

Belushi TD
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jemhouston
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Re: London to Calcutta by Bus

Post by jemhouston »

If you checked out Overland Journal and OVR magazines, driving through Iran seems to be popular.
Craiglxviii
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Re: London to Calcutta by Bus

Post by Craiglxviii »

MikeKozlowski wrote: Tue Dec 09, 2025 11:12 am London to Calcutta by Bus

TBH, this sounds like a pitch for an ep of The Grand Tour.

Mike
Calcutta wasn’t the terminus.

SYDNEY was the terminus. Via Singapore and then Perth.
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Sukhoiman
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Re: London to Calcutta by Bus

Post by Sukhoiman »

Hmmm, that would mean getting through Burma which was famously autarkic/isolationist/borders-closed under Ne Win junta 1.0.

the burma road trijunction region between India, China and Burma has some interesting/crazy history post ww2.... lot of KMT/ROC exiles set up there (and helped out other ethnic militias) with larger Burmese patronage/apathy.

I guess the western tourist conduit technically could go from chitaggong (East Pakistan) to arakan and hug the burmese coast so to speak till you reach Thailand, provided this was sanctioned by Burmese govt etc.

The relations were fairly good between Pakistan and Burma (Burma was neutral in 71 war, but allowed Pakistan forces to exile there). Things took a turn for worse as Bangladesh came into being coinciding with Ne Win autocratic crackdown on foreign minorities like Chinese/Indian and ofc Rohingya even back then.
kdahm
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Re: London to Calcutta by Bus

Post by kdahm »

Craiglxviii wrote: Wed Dec 10, 2025 6:53 am
MikeKozlowski wrote: Tue Dec 09, 2025 11:12 am London to Calcutta by Bus

TBH, this sounds like a pitch for an ep of The Grand Tour.

Mike
Calcutta wasn’t the terminus.

SYDNEY was the terminus. Via Singapore and then Perth.
No, for the original article, and Mike's reference, it was to Calcutta. Sydney was just a diversion in the article.
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Sukhoiman
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Re: London to Calcutta by Bus

Post by Sukhoiman »

but you are boarding boats at some point to get to indonesian islands and Oz anyway....so maybe you cheat that way where required along the way earlier too...shrug
MikeKozlowski
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Re: London to Calcutta by Bus

Post by MikeKozlowski »

Sukhoiman wrote: Wed Dec 10, 2025 4:50 pm but you are boarding boats at some point to get to indonesian islands and Oz anyway....so maybe you cheat that way where required along the way earlier too...shrug
...See now, Mr. Wilman would have told the boys that the buses would have to be amphibious. 8-)

Mike
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